July 11 & 12

What a terrific couple of days! We left here about 8 am and headed west to Eulo. About halfway to Eulo we came across Sean McCulloch. Now who’s Sean McCulloch? Only those who listen to Macca on “Australia All Over” on the ABC, Sunday mornings would know so I probably need to fill you in. A couple of months ago his mother rang Macca saying that her son was walking from Brisbane to Broome with some camels and she hadn’t heard from him – she wanted Macca’s listeners to keep an eye out for him and ask him to ring home. Some weeks back someone rang in and said they’d seen him along the way.

So, we were driving west and I suddenly spotted some camels off the road, did a “U” turn and went back. A hello and a couple of sentences later and we were in discussion with the wayward Sean. His goal is still to walk to Broome but instead of finishing the walk in 2008, it’s going to take a bit longer! He tries to average about 30 km a day but said he keeps getting held up by “bloody terrorists”, pulling up and wanting a chat, photo opportunity etc. His goal on Friday was to reach the Eulo Pub, which we heard later he’d achieved and no, he still hasn’t rung his mum! Nice son, but we did get some photos.

After reaching Eulo we turned south towards Hungerford – 112 km of gravel road away. The road was in three sections so far as quality went – the Paroo Shire was grading the northern end (quite good), the last 35 km in Bulloo Shire was recently graded and in good condition (80 kph – no worries) but the bit in between (about 50 km) was a bone-rattler and rates up there with some of the worst roads I’ve driven on. A steady speed – about 60 kph – smoothed the corrugations out a bit; any slower as when going through a grid and the vertebrae coming down met the vertebrae going up! I figured the road would be an excellent test of South Coast 4WD’s work on the Prado before we left. It performed really well with nothing falling off (YET!).

We stopped at a number of places in Currawinya National Park – homestead ruins, a shearing shed, a collection of huge granite boulders and a couple of lakes. My favourite however was the Corni Paroo waterhole – it was a magnificent stretch of water on the Paroo River – quiet and peaceful. I would have loved to have camped here for a few days. It reminded me very much of the waterhole we camped alongside on Cooper Creek, near Innaminka.

The two lakes were interesting. They are about 30 km off the main road and although only being 6 km apart Lake Numalla is fresh water while Lake Wyara is salty! They are both part of a protected wetlands and birdlife area. The road out was supposed to be 4WD only but was mostly in good condition with a few detours around water-filled claypans.

Although we’d booked accommodation at the Royal Mail Hotel in Hungerford we weren’t too sure what to expect (do a Google search for Royal Mail Hotel Hungerford and you’ll see what I mean)! As a result we left here prepared for anything and were pleasantly surprised. The publican is also the local mailman and does the trip from Hungerford to Cunnamulla most days of the week – did I say he drives a Toyota?

We had a great night at the pub and although some might consider the accommodation a bit primitive (eg bare floor boards) the beds were warm and comfortable and there was a heater in the room to take the edge off the temperature – what else do you need? Dinner (rump steak and lots of vegies) was terrific and we even shouted ourselves breakfast (bacon and eggs). No on-tap beer – everything was bottles and cans, but we’ve found that a lot in outback pubs. Cans of beer were $4.20 – probably a bit steep but then we were in the back of beyond.

The pub was quite a popular spot – the locals came in for a drink and all the accommodation was full.

I chatted for while to a local grazier and Bulloo Shire Councillor – he had a station 60 km west towards Thargomindah. We were discussing the difficulties associated with living in the bush and he said he’d had to travel to Thargomindah earlier in the week to see the Flying Doctor at the regular clinic visit – a round trip of 234 km – just to see the doctor. He filled up with diesel while there at $2 a litre. He had a jillaroo working with him and she came in to “town” for a break – she was probably under 18 but loved the life – except for having to round up sheep on a motor-bike at 6 on cold mornings.

Saturday morning was below freezing so mum and I didn’t surface until about 8! We weren’t in a hurry as we only had to drive back to Cunnamulla. The open fire was going in the dining-room although the publican admitted he’d had to throw a log-seat on the fire as he was a bit short of wood.

Having seen just about all of the National Park we didn’t stop until we reached Eulo. I tell a lie - we slowed down on the crossing over the Paroo River at Hungerford and a kangaroo decided to “lay” up on the bonnet – no damage done (to either us or the roo) as we were almost stationary when the silly thing jumped in front. The joey with her was more distressed because he didn’t know where mum had gone when she fell off. We also had a stop to photograph some very inquisitive emus.

On our way through Eulo we pulled up at the Date Farm and Winery. We sampled the wares, but not being wine drinkers, it didn’t do much for either of us.

We were back in time to do some cleaning up – mum put through a load of washing while I removed the Bourke and Hungerford dust from the tail-gate so that it opened without a grating sound. Tomorrow, off to Charleville for three nights (not two, as originally scheduled) – only a short 200 km run!