July 31 Cloncurry

Surprise! This report is coming to you from Cloncurry not Kynuna. We left Winton fully expecting to be spending the night at the Blue Healer Hotel at Kynuna but this was not to be. The drive out of Winton was a bit like the drive in – flat, dry and barren as we travelled across more black soil/Mitchell grass plains. The most common vegetation was Mimosa, a shrub which grows up to 2 or 3 m in height and like rabbits and cane toads is another “good” idea gone wrong. Stock will apparently eat it but it has taken over large areas and degraded the value of the country if infests. I’ll try and attach a couple of photos of it. We stopped at Combo Waterhole just before Kynuna – it’s an 8 km drive in off the main road and then a walk of 1 ½ km to reach the actual waterhole. Why did we stop there? Combo Waterhole was the place Patterson had in mind when he wrote Waltzing Matilda. It’s also on Dagworth Station which is the property where the woman who played the tune lived. After we left Combo Waterhole we stopped at Kynuna, another 15 km down the road and decided that we didn’t really want to stop there for the night. As it was only 1 o’clock we decided to set off for McKinlay, another small hamlet about an hour’s drive further on. The Walkabout Hotel is at McKinlay and it was the setting for the Crocodile Dundee movie. After a wander around and a cold drink at the pub, we decided we didn’t really want to spend the night there either. A phone call to Cloncurry informed us that we could come into our booking a day earlier and that seemed like a good plan. Just after leaving McKinlay we travelled over some horrendous bitumen road and everything in the van, including the passengers in the Prado, were all shook up. The last 100 km to Cloncurry saw us leave the black soil plains behind and pass through red-soil hilly country, more densely wooded and with millions of anthills up to a metre in height. It was a nice change. It was also obvious just how dry it is around here. Cloncurry is on Level 5 water restrictions so the situation is quite serious. We heard the mayor on ABC radio this morning and apparently a lot of the accommodation in the town is taken up by mine workers who are contributing to the usage problem but not counted as part of the permanent population. He said there are twelve mines in the area either in production or in the development stage. As it was quite late by the time we got here we haven’t really had a look at the town yet although we did find a Woolworths – a real supermarket! There’s a Mardi Gras here tomorrow night and a rodeo on the weekend.

July 30 Winton

Beautiful one day, perfect the next! What a great day in all ways. While you guys are shivering away down south we had a mid-twenties day and getting hotter tomorrow. Out come the shorts!

While we won’t be sorry to leave the van park, we’ve enjoyed Winton itself. We had another driving day – absolutely magnificent! Only drove about 60 km but it took us 4 ½ hrs, now that’s got to be some sort of record. Today we did the River Gum Drive through Bladensburg National Park and travelled through more spectacular (in our opinion) country. We had stops at three water-holes and really dawdled over two of them.

Skull Hole was the scene of an aboriginal massacre but also contained a cave and a large pool of water set against a small rocky escarpment.

Our lunch stop, which we had all to ourselves, was at Bough Shed waterhole on Surprise Creek. A quieter, more peaceful place would be hard to imagine. Ever though it was mid-day, there were lots of birds flitting about through the branches of the river red gums. Our “resident” ornithologist managed to even catch a few standing still long enough to be photographed.

Yesterday we’d come across a spectacular bloodwood tree with the buds standing up above the leaves in a most unusual way. Today we came across one where the buds had opened up and were in flower. The birds were extremely busy feasting on the nectar while the noise from the bees had to be heard to be believed.

Winton was in the news today – Tim Fisher (the politician) was here for a dinner last night and today was due to unveil a foundation stone for a twenty million dollar dinosaur building/museum about 13 km east of here where the Elliot dinosaur has been/is being excavated. Later in the week a convoy of motor-homes and caravans led by Dawn Fraser and Dick Johnson is due here. Be good for business in the town I suppose although they’re in for a shock when they lob in to this caravan park.

Cloncurry, where we’re due on Friday was also in the news. It appears they have only 10 weeks supply of water left. The people of Cloncurry have been using excessive amounts according to the report – I’m wondering if it might be the drain on supplies as a result of all the caravaners! We have about 50 L in the van tank and an emergency supply of 20 L in the Prado – perhaps I could sell some!

BTW, dirt roads are good for fuel consumption. I filled up this afternoon – now have enough fuel to get through to Mt Isa where it WILL be cheaper. Fuel consumption averaged out at 13.73 L/100 km – that’s about what the Magna does at home! Last time we had good figures was on the run down to Hungerford, also on dirt!

July 29 Winton

After a cool start, we had a great day and travelled 260 around the south & south west of the Winton district. 110 km south is Lark Quarry Conservation Park where there’s evidence of the world’s only dinosaur stampede. The story, as revealed by the footprints, is that a large number of small dinosaurs were feeding by the side of an ancient lake when a much larger carnivorous dinosaur came on the scene. The smaller creatures scattered in two different directions. It’s amazing that the evidence as indicated by the footprints has been preserved for so long and now that it’s been uncovered is available to be seen by all. A structure has been constructed over it to protect and preserve the footprints for all time. The country round about was beautiful jump-up country, the red of which contrasted with the green of the Spinifex.
After leaving Lark Quarry we headed west and were rewarded with a magnificent view towards the channel country and the Diamantina. Travelling further we crossed a very barren plain before heading north across the black soil and Mitchell grass plains. Apparently the Mitchell grass provides some of the best grazing country in Queensland, especially after substantial wet seasons. The black soil is a bit of a misnomer as it is really a dark tan/light chocolate colour. Going by the evidence on the roads we travelled it is very treacherous when wet. Our trusty “steed” handled the conditions with ease although we did bottom out a couple of times when caught in deep wheel ruts.
I commented to Mum at one stage that I really enjoy this type of country but have no desire to want to live here.
The round trip was completed when we arrived back in Winton and celebrated with a chocolate thickshake. Would you believe we didn’t bring the scales with us (too much extra weight) so we have no idea how the “body beautiful” is going?
We finished our day with a visit to Arno’s Wall – Arno has built a wall about 2 m high around his property made out of bits and pieces of junk all held together with cement – it has to be seen to be believed (I’ll try and post a photo).

July 28 Winton

After we left Longreach and the Thompson River overflows behind we settled in to travel across about 150 km of flat, dry countryside. Even the trees don’t like living out here as they were very stunted and could really only be found along water-courses. Whenever we topped a small rise you could see for kilometres in all directions with nothing much to break up the view to the horizon. As we got closer to Winton a small range and some jump-ups came into view. One thing which surprises me is that this country is still largely sheep grazing – I would have thought by now we’d be well and truly back into cattle country.

Winton is only small (about 1900 people) with three pubs, a handful of motels and not a lot else. As far as size goes it’s on a par with Barcaldine but give me Barcy any day. We wandered into a couple of general stores to check on prices (no supermarkets here) and quickly walked out again. Fruit and vegie prices were astronomical – bananas $7, apples $5-6 etc. I can only guess that anyone living here would have to travel to Longreach on a fortnightly or monthly basis to stock up.

The caravan park has nothing to recommend it. We’re not too fussy but it would be by far the worst we’ve stopped at. I just hope the wind doesn’t blow too much as it will be quite dusty. You can get wet in the showers but need to be a contortionist to get undressed, dry and dressed. Three nights? Hmmmm! There’s supposed to be a frost in the morning for the next couple of days – the way the cold wind is blowing from the south I’m not prepared to argue.

Winton is the home of Waltzing Matilda as it was here that Banjo Patterson wrote the words to accompany a tune played by a friend. After lunch we visited the Waltzing Matilda Centre and found it quite good although I’m all museumed out – I’d better not say anything like that to the people at the Illawarra Historical Museum!

My strategy of not filling up with petrol until here backfired – the petrol price is a bit like the fruit – 169.9 cpl, the highest we’ve paid since leaving Wollongong. I could have bought it in Longreach for 162.9! All up it cost $197.98 for 700 km of travel. Oh well, it’s only money!

I rang NRMA today and it appears my NRMA premium membership may cover me for up to $3000 while the car is being fixed. When we get to Mt Isa I have to ring RACQ and get a serviceman to indicate that the car will be off the road for more than 24 hours. I should then be covered for accommodation and car hire. That will help quite a bit! Perhaps we should leave the van in the caravan park and book into a motel.

July 27 Longreach

Today’s major stop was at the QANTAS Founders Outback Museum, established here in Longreach because it’s the home of QANTAS. Other than the museum itself the other highlights were the display of a 707, 747 and the original QANTAS hangar. We had a guided tour of the 747 and it was really interesting to be able to see many of the areas you don’t get to access as a passenger. As well the role of all the “little bits” on the outside of the plane was explained. QANTAS donated the 747 to the museum when it had reached the end of its useful life but had major issues to resolve before it could be landed in Longreach. As much weight as possible was removed and it could land using only the two inside of its four engines. The pilot who volunteered to fly it in had to spend 4 months training in a simulator before he was qualified to fly it. Amazing! The 707 was actually restored and flown out to Australia before reaching it resting place here at Longreach.

Both the QANTAS Museum and the Stockman’s Hall of Fame have had a huge impact on the economy of Longreach, just going by the number of visitors while we’ve been here. I imagine they would both be pretty empty during the summer months though when the temperature is regularly over 40⁰. We were invited back for Christmas but I think we’ll pass.

Mum got a load of washing done this afternoon and we paid a visit to the local craft centre and a nursery where she bought another eremophila. We now have our own travelling nursery and between stops the plants reside in a box in the step of the van.

Quite a lot of the older residences in Longreach display the traditional architecture for this climate – high roof cavity, built well above the ground to provide a cool space below and wide verandahs on either 2 or 3 sides. Understandably, ducted air conditioning is almost mandatory.

July 26 Longreach

We spent most of today (well 4 hours anyrate) at the Aust. Stockmans’ Hall of Fame. It was quite interesting and included a one hour show where a guy demonstrated working sheep with dogs and talked about horses, droving etc. This all happened after we went into town to buy a new microwave for the van. To repair the old one involved sending it to Rockhampton. Now where have I heard that story before? The new one set us back $130 and is smaller (dimension-wise) than the old one so it fits into the space in the van. The only thing is we’ll have to remember to leave it on the seat when we pack up the van to travel! I’ll have to commission John C to come up with a way of fixing it in permanently. With the truckies strike starting this week an unknown quantity, we decided to get some extra fruit and vegies. It’ll be interesting to see whether it takes any road-trains off the road. Cattle and sheep sales in Roma and Longreach have been cancelled because of the uncertainty. The petrol price here is 162.9 but I’m going to leave filling up until Winton, by which time we should then have enough to get through to Mt Isa.

July 25 Longreach

It was bitterly cold when we left Barcaldine this morning so we set the heater in the car on full bore and away we went. Our only stop before Longreach was at a place called Ilfracombe. It’s only tiny (about 400 people) but is famous for its machinery museum which stretches from one side of the town to the other. Machinery of all descriptions and vintages has been collected and put on display – pumps, tractors, road making machinery, a wool wagon, trucks etc. We also had a look at Langenbaker house which was moved to Ilfracombe from Barcaldine by a teamster and his family. It’s a remarkably intact example of a late 19^th century outback town dwelling.

Arriving at the caravan park in Longreach confirmed what a good decision it had been to stay in Barcaldine the extra day. Even though the ground had dried out a bit there was plenty of evidence of what a slop-hole it must have been.

Longreach has quite an impressive shopping centre and is another town with a really wide main street, wide enough for centre parking as well as angle parking on the kerbs. All the streets are named after birds – Eagle, Swan Pelican etc. Typically the place shuts down at lunch time on Saturday with nothing much open on Sunday at all.

Judging by the clothing, hats, boots and 4WDs Friday must be shopping day for the farmers, their wives and station hands. The picture gives an idea how busy the main street was.

We found a very nice bakery serving good coffee and lots of delicacies with fresh cream – yummo! Probably just as well it closes at lunch time on Saturday!

Mum still hasn’t had a chance to have a swim since we’ve been away – there was a pool heated with bore water at Ilfracombe but not even as Eskimo would have swum there.

A rodeo was due to be held here tomorrow night but has been cancelled because of the wet ground. We’re not disappointed as there’s one at Cloncurry while we’re there and then the big one at Mt Isa.

Breaking News: The microwave decided to stop working tonight. That’s issue number 4 since leaving home – I thought things were only supposed to happen in 3s!It was bitterly cold when we left Barcaldine this morning so we set the heater in the car on full bore and away we went. Our only stop before Longreach was at a place called Ilfracombe. It’s only tiny (about 400 people) but is famous for its machinery museum which stretches from one side of the town to the other. Machinery of all descriptions and vintages has been collected and put on display – pumps, tractors, road making machinery, a wool wagon, trucks etc. We also had a look at Langenbaker house which was moved to Ilfracombe from Barcaldine by a teamster and his family. It’s a remarkably intact example of a late 19^th century outback town dwelling.

Arriving at the caravan park in Longreach confirmed what a good decision it had been to stay in Barcaldine the extra day. Even though the ground had dried out a bit there was plenty of evidence of what a slop-hole it must have been.

Longreach has quite an impressive shopping centre and is another town with a really wide main street, wide enough for centre parking as well as angle parking on the kerbs. All the streets are named after birds – Eagle, Swan Pelican etc. Typically the place shuts down at lunch time on Saturday with nothing much open on Sunday at all.

Judging by the clothing, hats, boots and 4WDs Friday must be shopping day for the farmers, their wives and station hands. The picture gives an idea how busy the main street was.

We found a very nice bakery serving good coffee and lots of delicacies with fresh cream – yummo! Probably just as well it closes at lunch time on Saturday!

Mum still hasn’t had a chance to have a swim since we’ve been away – there was a pool heated with bore water at Ilfracombe but not even as Eskimo would have swum there.

A rodeo was due to be held here tomorrow night but has been cancelled because of the wet ground. We’re not disappointed as there’s one at Cloncurry while we’re there and then the big one at Mt Isa.

Breaking News: The microwave decided to stop working tonight. That’s issue number 4 since leaving home – I thought things were only supposed to happen in 3s!